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冰室&茶餐廳:(三)細牌與大牌的過去
July 9, 2021

☕️🧇上回提到,冰室和茶餐廳之間的分別,早期兩者連牌照上也有所不同。今次我們嘗試拆解現時最常見的可供堂食的兩種飲食牌照。

「細牌」/

當時冰室的牌照與現時小食食肆牌照類似,俗稱「細牌」,與普通食肆牌照一樣可以堂食,但只可售賣《⼩⻝⻝肆獲准烹製及售賣的⻝物》內所列明的“已預先製作”的⻝物。持有細牌的食肆只准烹製及售賣被規定的六種類内其中一種。

「大牌」/

相反,普通食肆牌照又稱「大牌」,只要不是售賣受限制的食品,例如壽司🍣、生蠔🦪等,准許持牌人基本上是沒有限制的,而且食客也可以堂食。

茶餐廳牌照/

衛生局 於1960年設立了「茶餐廳牌照」,但現時已被廢除。有關牌照的特性和廢除的原因,我也沒有太多資訊,我嘗試聯絡過相關部門但都空手而回。然而我們相信現時所有茶餐廳領取著普通食肆牌照。若讀者們知道這些歷史和條例,不妨與我們分享。今時今日的冰室/現時大部份的所謂冰室也領取着「普通食肆牌照」。除了裝修外,實際上他們所提供的食品與普通茶餐廳沒有太大的分別。所以現在我走進冰室,吃的主要是當年環境氣氛的感覺,食物種類和質素是次要的。

Types of restaurant licenses/

As mentioned last time, in the 1980s and early 1990s, the licences of traditional “Bing Sutt” and “Cha Chaan Teng” were different. Today let’s illustrate the two most common catering licenses which are available for dine-in service.

“Small license"/

In the earlier stage, the “Bing Sutt’s” license was similar to the current light refreshment restaurant license, commonly known as "small license". It allows dine-in service but strictly restricted the food items that the licensee can prepare and sell for consumption, only one group of the food items as stated can be chosen.

“Big license”/

On the contrary, ordinary restaurant licenses are known as "big license." As long as licensee does not sell restricted food items, like sushi and oysters,  that require a specific permit, the licensee basically can sell anything and is also available for dine-in.

“Cha Chaan Teng’s” license/

This license was established in 1960 by the former Health Bureau but has now been suspended.  And we believe all Cha Chaan Teng in Hong Kong nowadays have a general restaurant license. Detailed information and the reasons for its suspension are hard to find, so if you know anything about the history and regulations, please do not hesitate to share them with us.

Today’s “Bing Sutt”/

Basically, most of the so-called “Bing Sutts” are now holding general restaurant licenses.  Except for the decoration, their menu is more or less the same as ordinary “Cha Chaan Teng”. For me, when I now walk into Bitt Sutt, what I am enjoying the most is the taste of time rather than the taste of food.

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奶茶:(一)愛上絲襪
愛上絲襪 🦵🏻☕The silk stocking fantasy~ 奶茶聯盟/ 泰國有泰式奶茶,台灣有珍珠奶茶,印度有香料奶茶,香港呢?港式奶茶又名為絲襪奶茶,作為香港非物質文化遺產,它以港式奶茶製作技藝被歸類為傳統手工藝。嘆一杯絲襪奶茶,憑:色、香、味、口感、回甘和故事。絲襪奶茶的馥郁芳香反映了香港中西文化的交融與發展。​ 中西交融/ 港式奶茶的原型為英式奶茶,於港英時期,英國人喜歡使用錫蘭(現稱斯里蘭卡)的紅茶加糖和鮮奶飲用,但當時英式奶茶大多使用貴價材料,只有達官貴人才可以在高級西餐廳享用,味道較絲襪奶茶清淡。事至大約於二次大戰後,喝奶茶的文化才漸漸普及化,當時政府為解決市民的就業和飲食需要,發出眾多大牌檔牌照,使服務基層市民的大牌檔等食肆興起,從中脫穎而出的便是於1952創立的「蘭芳園」,其創辦人為林木河先生,或稱絲襪奶茶之父。 絲襪奶茶的雛形源於林先生於三角碼頭(香港的第一個碼頭)的一個偶遇,話說當時他正學習調配英式奶茶,獲一位剛上岸的海員贈送錫蘭紅茶葉後他開始細心鑽研,首創以體積較小的銅製梯壺沖茶以減少苦味,然後利用林太自製的高密度白布茶袋濾走茶渣以令奶茶更香滑。經重複使用後的白布袋染上茶漬而顏色變黃,加上其彈性仿如女性用的絲襪,因而被當時的一些咕喱(Collie) 命名為「絲襪奶茶」。與英式奶茶相比,絲襪奶茶採用更濃的紅茶葉並以淡奶代替鮮奶泡製。 Milktealogy/ Thai milk tea, bubble tea, chai milk tea or the Silk Stocking Milk Tea from Hong Kong? The making of the HK-style milk tea requires traditional craftsmanship which is one of the HK Intangible Cultural Heritages, its fragrant taste and smooth texture are the basis of this signature drink. And the history behind has made it become the perfect icon of the integration of eastern and western culture in HK. Origin and the Cultural Integration/ In the era of British Hong Kong, the British “afternoon tea” culture has come along, serving a black tea with fresh milk is the golden rule. Initially, it is only shared among the upper class of society, and until the end of the second world war, it started to gain popularity. At that time, the government established a large number of the cooked-food stall (Dai Pai Dong) licenses to settle public chaos and needs, and provided a chance for the growth of local food and beverage industry. Remarkably, there is a standout Dai Pai Dong named Lan Fong Yuen whose founder is the father of the Silk Stocking Milk Tea - Mr.Lam. The Silk Stocking Milk Tea is made by blending at least three types of Ceylon tea leaves with different coarseness and replacing fresh milk with evaporated milk to balance the bitter taste. Crucially, a customised sackcloth bag made by Mrs.Lam is used to filter tea leaves for a smoother texture. Since the black tea dyed the frequently used bag and it has an elastic texture, some fans dubbed it the name Silk Stocking. . . #lifestyle_kongcept #我港生活 #kongcept #我港 #絲襪奶茶 #生活品味 #hkmilktea #silkstocking #milktea
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好的咖啡或茶不僅只著重質素,還有氣氛和環境!
好的咖啡或茶不僅只著重質素,還有氣氛和環境! ☕️ A cup of good coffee or tea is not just about its quality, but also the atmosphere! 「鴛鴦」由建築設計公司 Building Narrative 出版的書。他們希望透過故事陳述與設計構想角度去介紹香港的茶舍與咖啡廳。雖然茶餐廳向來「快、靚、正」的賣點,一直都穩固地作為香港人用餐的首選,但新式的茶舍與咖啡廳不僅僅是提供飲食的地方,而成為了我們新的社區休憩空間。作者希望透過這本書讓讀者認識每個茶舍與咖啡廳經營者的理念其實構成了一個新的社區休憩網絡。致建築師、設計師、香港人:讓我們感受這一波茶舍與咖啡廳的浪潮吧! 也千萬別忘了感受生活! 請稍移玉步先去看看他們的IG,「鴛鴦」的實體書很快就會面世! ‘’ Yin Yeung’’, by Building Narrative, is a book to illustrates and presents tea house and cafes in Hong Kong through story-telling and from a design perspective. While cha chaan tang has always been the favourite spot for the locals, in light of its efficiency and unfussy everyday meal, modern coffee shops and tea houses offer something that go well beyond traditional eateries or drinking places. They create a space that become the new amenities of our local communities and play a part in fulfilling new-gen HKers’ pursuit of lifestyle and wellbeing. For the owners of the coffee shops and tea houses that are featured in this book, their vision have together created a network of amenities all over the territory for fellow HKers to enjoy. This is not only a book for architects and designers; it is a present for all HKers who have immersed themselves in this new wave of coffee and tea culture, and who totally enjoy it. As starter, enjoy their Instagram introduction of each tea house or café! The book will be released very soon! #kongcept #我港 #yinyeung #hkcafe #hkteahouse
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罐頭食品(二):豆豉鯪魚的姻緣
#我港生活 #lifestyle_kongcept 豆豉與鯪魚的邂逅/ 隔離期間食太多午餐肉?由細食到大嘅豆豉鯪魚呢?1893年,第一罐豆豉鯪魚在廣洲廣茂香罐頭廠面世。這可追溯十九世紀時,依水為生的珠三角勞工,偶然發現鯪魚的甘鮮和豆豉的咸香十分配合。豆豉、鯪魚和調味料的配方一直長相廂守至今,你能想像一樣的味道能流傳百年嗎? 雖說豆豉鯪魚起源於廣州,但絕對不輸午餐肉的「頹人恩物」,美味的鯪魚加上豆豉汁撈飯可能是很多香港人的日常,它的味道也讓很多移居外國的香港人回憶家鄉的感覺。在疫情如此嚴重的時刻,跨境運輸的阻礙更令它的價錢一度上調至💰50元!!!祝願大家仍能在超市找到罐豆豉鯪魚😂 百年不變的制作方法/ 豆豉味滲進魚肉,魚汁浸泡豆豉,互為融合,但其實制作過程中,豆豉和魚是入罐後才相遇的。首先將豆豉入罐,再把解凍好的魚乾和調料液里浸泡一定時間,他倆才能相遇,最後注入精煉豆油。一罐豆豉鯪魚在高溫消毒後便成香氣與味覺滿分的完成品。 The encounter of tempeh and dace/ Beside spam, canned “Dace in Tempeh” is an other top can food in Hong Kong. In 1893, the first can was launched at a factory named 廣茂香 in Guangzhou. Tracing back to the 19th century, when workers in the Pearl River Delta who depended on the water for a living, accidentally discovered that the sweetness of dace and the salty aroma of tempeh go very well together. Then the recipe passed down for a hundred years… Although Dace in Tempeh originated in Guangzhou, having a bite of delicious Dace in Tempeh with rice is the daily life of many Hongkongers and the taste of it may even recall the feeling of home when you away. Nevertheles, its price increased to 💰HKD50 per because of cross-border transportation issue. Hope that everyone can still find cans of Dace in Tempeh in the supermarket 😂 The production method that has not changed for a hundred years / First put the tempeh in the can, then soak the thawed dried fish and seasoning liquid for a certain period of time before they are canned together, and finally inject refined soybean oil. After a can of tempeh dace is sterilized at high temperature, it becomes a finished product with perfect aroma and taste.
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冰室&茶餐廳: (序) 美食天堂的中流砥柱
美食文化的幕後功臣-飲食文化的進程/ 飲食是生存必需品和生活的調劑,而飲食文化見證人和社會的成長。基於70年代香港經濟起飛和其獨特的國際身份,香港成為了美食天堂,世界美食的匯聚點。在此背後默默支撐著一切的是最地道且屬於香港人的本土飲食文化,見證了香港的歷史進程,支持著每個香港人的日常。 香港介紹過: (1)《大牌檔》由二次大戰後開始支撐著香港人的每一餐; (2) 大牌檔創出《絲襪奶茶》流芳百世; (3)《港飲文化》相繼而生; 今個月開始,我港會帶領你探索《冰室》和《茶餐廳》。 去 @kongcep852 右上角開著 🔔 通知,今個月唔會令你失望! The Inner Side of the Food Paradise – HK Food Culture/ Food culture witnesses the history and growth of a society. In light of the take-off of Hong Kong economy in the 1970s and its unique international identity, HK has become a food paradise with Michelin Starssss. And when we see through all the fame and spotlight, there is something more valuable to Hongkongers, the most authentic food culture which has recorded the history and story of HK, and supported the daily life of every Hongkongers. Previously, @Kongcept852 introduced you the “Dai Pai Dong”, “Silk-stocking Milk Tea” and “HK Beverage Culture”. In the upcoming weeks, let’s begin to drill into "冰室Bing Sutt" and "茶餐廳Cha Chaan Teng". 📸: @mr_nkf Visit @kongcept852 and turn on the 🔔notification on the top right hand corner, and be prepared. #我港 #kongcept #我港生活 #lifestyle_kongcept #冰室 #茶餐廳 #茶記 #chachaanteng #bingsutt #香港文化 #hkfoodblogger #hkfoods #hkdrinks #自己香港自己救 #ฮ่องกง #홍콩 #hongkonger #hkculture #hongkongmoment #capturehongkong #hkblogger #japaneseinhk #在香港的台灣人 #lifeinhongkong #hkphotography #visualhongkong #香港生活 #香港好きな人と繋がりたい
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🧐Kongcept 飲品大全/ 每次步進港式咖啡室/餐廳,你只會叫奶茶、咖啡還是檸檬茶?可惜!…香港地道飲品其實五花八門。 入門:黑與白的大戰/ 「呵瀝&華田」(Holicks&Ovaltine)兩者都是麥芽飲品,雖然不是本土特產但經過年月的洗禮,現已成為大眾的兒時回憶,茶餐廳更會把兩者混合為兒童或黑白鴛鴦,一句到尾,呵瀝更好飲! 初級挑戰:汽水/ 各種外國引入的汽水也被香港人玩弄於股掌之間,像雞尾酒般調配。源自70年代尾的忌廉溝鮮奶,必須先把牛奶倒進杯然後才加入當時稱為荷蘭水的玉泉忌廉;熱檸樂煲薑,這是一種是香港一種民間食療,因舊時的公共醫療體系尚待發展完善,難以負擔診金的市民便希望以此治療感冒。雖然其藥效不明,但暖水和薑至少可以紓緩發冷及喉嚨不適。 中級挑戰:走/ 絲襪奶茶是香港之光,而茶走是它的演變體,據說從前食客害怕奶茶加入砂糖會惹痰,所以店家開始以煉奶代替砂糖,成為「茶走」,漸漸更出現鴦走和華田走等等的煉奶飲品。 地獄級:滾水蛋/ 這是只有老牌餐廳才會提供的飲品,做法是把一顆生蛋雞打進一杯滾燙的熱,攪拌開來後再加上砂糖調味。古曰,雞蛋進水有如「跳海」;蛋白花開彷如「袈裟」,輕飄落下;蛋黃之圓滑,就如「光頭」。這飲品又名為「和尚跳海」。由於舊時香港物資匱乏,「滾水蛋」是當時的一款營養食品。 愛我請分享/ 融合、創新、演變、再創新,被外國朋友問及香港文化時,大家都理應可以滔滔不絕的自豪地介紹。喝哪種飲品?如何品嚐一杯絲襪奶茶?如何用廣東話下單?這些話題都已足夠打動你的外國朋友,試利用一個下午茶的時間去介紹,你好 鍾意的香港。 Kongcept Drink Menu/ Are milk tea, coffee or coke always your choices of drinks? Shame, you are missing out a lot... Beginner Challenge: Soda/ There are different kinds of soda mocktail in HK. For instance, adding preserved limes and fresh lemon into 7up is the summer cure. Health-wise, boiling Coca Cola with ginger and lemon is a kind of folk diet therapy in old HK. When the public medical system has yet to be well developed, citizens who cannot afford the consultation fee would try to treat flu with this drink, although its efficacy is not proved, it at least relieves sore throat. Intermediate Challenge: “走jau2”/ Silk stocking milk tea is the pride of HK, and when you replace the evaporated milk and sugar in it with condensed milk, it becomes “茶走cha4 jau2”. In the past, diners were afraid that adding sugar to milk tea would cause phlegm, so the store began to replace sugar with condensed milk. Likewise, adding the word “走” at the end of any HK local beverage could means the use of condensed milk. Boss: Monk Jumping into the Sea/ This is a drink that only the oldest HK restaurants can offer, it’s made by adding a raw egg into a cup of boiling water. Egg yolk represents the shiny bald head of the monk and egg white that spread over the water is like the monk cassock. This drink was treated as a power drink for the lower-class. Complicated yet Loveable/ Learning but not blindly pursuing; harmonious but diversified. The concept of Yin Yeung represents the culture of HK.
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奶茶:(二)品味奶茶
品味奶茶🏝️Luxurious Milk Tea 習以為常的錯/ 有時候對茶餐廳不能要求太多,但有一杯好飲的絲襪奶茶絕對係點綴! 絲襪奶茶已有多年歷史,由50年代藍領階層的恩物變成照顧全香港市民的獨特文化。發展至今,絲襪奶茶於香港已經隨處可見,不論是日式餐廳或以港式奶茶為招徠的店鋪層出不窮,奶茶雪糕,奶茶爆谷,奶茶味乳清蛋白…縱使有金茶王大賽或港式奶茶機械人等相關事物,但針對奶茶本身的發展還是較遜色。「絲襪奶茶已是香港最多人喝的飲品,你還要求什麼?」,無可否認,香港人每年對奶茶的消耗量高達9億杯,但習以為常換來的會是價值的下降和冷漠的對待,比起作為一杯跟餐的免費飲品,絲襪奶茶值得擁有更多。 絲襪奶茶的調配很講求多階段的技巧,一沖、二焗、三撞、四回溫為基本的沖茶步驟。作為靈魂的茶膽則以三到六種不同粗幼的茶葉拼成,粗茶香氣濃郁而茶色清澈;幼茶色澤較深而茶味最濃;至於中粗茶的質素則較平均,用作平衡茶膽。箇中的學問為此飲品增添了一定的價值,有很大的進步和發展空間。或許絲襪奶茶可以代替咖啡,成為你和我的生活品味,手工絲襪奶茶店於世界偏地開花亦非空想。先生小姐,請問想要咖啡或茶? Taste of HK Lifestyle/ Silk Stocking Milk Tea has now become the most famous and sometimes complimentary beverage in Hong Kong, from the energy drink for blue-collar workers in the 50s to a necessity for every Hong Konger. In recent years, it even bloomed as a gimmick in different areas, silk stocking milk tea flavoured ice-ream, popcorn, whey protein powder, the sky is the limit. However, the study and development of the milk tea itself are lost behind, despite there are even related competitions such as the KamCha. Although Hong Kongers drinks 900million milk tea every year, it is actually being treated as a super ordinary drink as people don't value the things they get for free. Making a decent cup of Silk Stocking Milk Tea requires different techniques, with proper blending and selection of tea leaves and evaporated milk, you enjoy the perfect balanced milk-rich layers of tastes. Silk Stocking Milk Tea has a high potential, decent cupping and tasting are granted, let us stay tuned for the bloom of Silk Stocking Milk Tea industry. I don’t need a Barista, I want a Milkteaista! . . 📷 @mr_nkf . #lifestyle_kongcept #我港生活 #kongcept #我港 #絲襪奶茶 #生活品味 #hkmilktea #silkstocking #milkteaalliance
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